Why Barichara Is the Most Beautiful Town I Have Visited in Colombia
I had been told by multiple Colombians that Barichara was the prettiest town in the country. Every single one of them used the same word: “hermoso.” Beautiful. Colombians are generous with compliments about their country, so I had learned to calibrate my expectations. But when I walked into Barichara for the first time, late in the afternoon with the sun turning the stone walls gold, I understood immediately that they had not been exaggerating.
Barichara is built almost entirely of stone. The streets are paved with flat sandstone slabs. The walls of the houses, churches, and public buildings are constructed from blocks of the same warm, honey-colored stone, quarried from the surrounding hillsides. The roofs are terracotta tile. The wooden doors and window frames are painted in deep blues, greens, and reds. And every surface — every wall, every doorstep, every courtyard — seems to have been swept clean that morning. The town has a meticulousness about it that goes beyond tidiness. It feels cared for in a way that speaks to genuine civic pride.
Declared a National Monument in 1978, Barichara sits on a ridge in the department of Santander at about 1,300 meters above sea level, overlooking the dramatic canyon of the Rio Suarez. The climate is warm and dry — a welcome contrast to the cool, damp highlands of Bogota and Boyaca. The population is small, the pace is slow, and the surrounding landscape of dry canyons and scrubby hillsides has a stark, austere beauty that I found deeply moving.
Getting to Barichara
The journey to Barichara is not quick, but it is straightforward and the effort is rewarded many times over.
From Bogota
The most common route is an overnight bus from Bogota to San Gil (6-7 hours, COP 50,000-70,000 / $12-16 USD). Buses depart from Bogota’s Terminal de Transportes in the evening and arrive in San Gil in the early morning. From San Gil’s terminal, colectivos (shared minibuses) leave for Barichara every 30-45 minutes. The ride takes about 45 minutes along a winding mountain road and costs COP 7,000 ($1.65 USD).
From Bucaramanga
If you are flying into the region, Bucaramanga’s Palonegro Airport (BGA) is the nearest. From the airport, take a taxi or bus to Bucaramanga’s terminal, then a bus to San Gil (2.5-3 hours, COP 25,000-30,000 / ~$6-7 USD), and connect to Barichara.
What’s the Best Way to Get Around Barichara?
Barichara is tiny and perfectly walkable. Everything — the plaza, the churches, the mirador, the workshops, the restaurants — is within a ten-minute stroll. For the Camino Real hike to Guane, you walk out of town on foot. For trips to San Gil, colectivos run from the main road on the edge of town.
The Camino Real to Guane
This is the essential Barichara experience, and one of my favorite hikes in all of Colombia.
The Camino Real is a colonial-era stone path that connects Barichara to the tiny village of Guane, roughly 5.8 kilometers away. The path was built in the early 19th century using the same sandstone that defines Barichara’s architecture, and it has been impeccably restored. Walking it feels like stepping back through time — the stones under your feet are the same stones that mule trains, merchants, and villagers have trodden for over two centuries.
The Hike
The trail descends from Barichara through dry scrubland, past cacti and acacia trees, with views of the Suarez River canyon opening up below you. The stone path is uneven in places but well-maintained, and the route is impossible to lose. The descent takes about 1.5-2 hours at a comfortable pace.
The landscape along the way is striking in its austerity. This part of Santander is dry and rocky, more reminiscent of the Mediterranean or the American Southwest than the lush green Colombia of popular imagination. Lizards dart across the path. Butterflies cluster around puddles. The air is warm and still, scented with dry grass and sun-baked stone.
Guane
The village of Guane is a reward in itself. This tiny settlement — population a few hundred — has a beautiful colonial church and a small but fascinating paleontological and archaeological museum run by the local community. The museum contains fossils found in the surrounding area, Guane indigenous artifacts, and colonial-era objects. Entrance is around COP 5,000 (~$1.20 USD).
The plaza in Guane is one of the most peaceful places I have found in Colombia. Sit on a bench, buy a limonada from one of the small shops, and watch the slow rhythm of village life. There is almost nothing to “do” here, and that is precisely the point.
Getting Back
You can walk back up the Camino Real to Barichara (allow 2-2.5 hours for the uphill return) or catch a colectivo from Guane’s plaza (COP 5,000 / ~$1.20 USD, departures are sporadic so ask locally about timing). I walked both ways and found the return climb perfectly manageable, if warm. Bring water.
Walking Barichara’s Streets
The town itself is the attraction. I spent hours simply walking the stone streets, ducking into doorways, peering into courtyards, and photographing the interplay of light and shadow on the sandstone walls.
The Plaza Principal
Like all Colombian towns, Barichara’s life revolves around its central plaza. The Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepcion dominates one side — a stone church with a simple, elegant facade that glows warmly in the afternoon light. The plaza is small, shaded by trees, and surrounded by low colonial buildings housing cafes and shops. In the evenings, families gather on the benches and children play on the cobblestones.
The Mirador
A short walk from the plaza leads to the mirador on the edge of town, where the ridge drops away to reveal the Suarez River canyon below. The view is dramatic — a vast, arid landscape of layered rock and distant blue mountains that stretches to the horizon. I visited at sunset and the color palette shifted from gold to copper to deep purple as the sun dropped behind the western ridge. It was stunning.
The Cemetery
The Cementerio de Barichara is one of the most beautiful cemeteries I have seen. Built from the same local stone, with whitewashed walls and simple crosses, it sits on the edge of the canyon with views across the valley. It sounds morbid to recommend a cemetery, but this one is genuinely a place of beauty and peace.
Artisan Workshops
Barichara has a thriving artisan community that works with materials drawn directly from the surrounding landscape.
Paper Making
The Fundacion Escuela Taller de Barichara operates workshops where artisans produce handmade paper from fique (agave) fiber. You can visit the workshop, watch the process, and buy the finished products — cards, journals, artwork, and decorative items. The paper has a beautiful, rough texture and a warm, natural color. I bought a journal that I still use.
Stone Carving
Given that the entire town is built from sandstone, it is fitting that stone carving is a major local craft. Several workshops offer demonstrations and sell pieces ranging from small decorative items to larger sculptures. The stone is soft enough to carve with hand tools and takes on a lovely patina over time.
Weaving and Textiles
Fique fiber is woven into bags, mats, hammocks, and other items in workshops throughout the town. Watching the weavers work at their looms is meditative, and the finished products are functional and beautiful.
What to Eat in Barichara
Santanderean cuisine is distinctive, bold, and occasionally challenging. This is a region of strong flavors and unusual ingredients.
Hormigas Culonas
I have to address this immediately. Barichara and the Santander region are famous for hormigas culonas — large-bottomed ants that are toasted and eaten as a snack. They are harvested during a brief season (March-April) and have been a delicacy since pre-Columbian times. The taste is nutty, slightly earthy, with a satisfying crunch. I will be honest: the first one took some courage. By the third, I was hooked. They are sold in small bags around town for COP 5,000-10,000 (~$1.20-2.35 USD).
Cabrito
Roasted goat (cabrito) is the signature main dish of Santander. It is slow-cooked over wood coals until the meat is tender and the skin is crispy. Served with yuca, rice, and pepitoria (a sauce made with goat offal, breadcrumbs, and spices), it is a hearty, deeply flavored meal. A plate of cabrito typically costs COP 25,000-40,000 (~$6-9 USD).
Mute Santandereano
A thick soup made with grains, beans, pork, and tripe. It is the kind of dish that fuels farmers through long days of labor, and on a cooler evening in Barichara, it is deeply satisfying. Available at local restaurants for around COP 12,000-18,000 (~$3-4 USD).
What Should I Eat in Barichara?
The restaurants around the plaza are generally good and reasonably priced. For the set lunch (almuerzo), look for the smaller, family-run places on the side streets — COP 10,000-15,000 (~$2.35-3.50 USD) for a complete meal. Color de Hormiga serves creative takes on local cuisine, and Restaurante Las Cruces does excellent cabrito.
Where Should I Stay in Barichara?
Budget (Under COP 70,000 / ~$16 USD per night)
Barichara has several hostels and basic guesthouses with clean rooms at fair prices. Hostal Color de Hormiga is a standout for its character and friendly owner. Dorm beds start around COP 30,000 (~$7 USD).
Mid-Range (COP 120,000-300,000 / ~$28-70 USD per night)
The mid-range options in Barichara are exceptional. For COP 150,000-250,000 (~$35-59 USD), you can stay in a beautifully restored stone house with a courtyard, comfortable furnishings, and breakfast included. These properties often feel like luxury at mid-range prices.
Luxury (COP 350,000+ / ~$82+ USD per night)
Boutique hotels like Hotel Corata and Casa Barichara offer a refined colonial experience with beautiful restoration, excellent beds, and thoughtful service. At these prices, the rooms are spacious, the gardens immaculate, and the ambiance perfect.
San Gil — Adventure Side Trip
San Gil, just 45 minutes away by colectivo, is the adventure sports capital of Colombia and makes an excellent day trip from Barichara.
White-Water Rafting
The Rio Fonce and Rio Suarez offer excellent rafting with Class III-IV rapids. Half-day trips cost COP 50,000-80,000 (~$12-19 USD) and are well-organized with experienced guides. The Chicamocha section of the Suarez is the most exciting.
Paragliding
Tandem paragliding over the Chicamocha canyon is one of the most spectacular aerial experiences available in Colombia. Flights cost around COP 120,000-180,000 (~$28-42 USD) and launch from the canyon rim near Curiti.
Caving
The Cueva del Indio near San Gil offers a guided spelunking experience through underground rivers and rock formations. A fun, muddy adventure for COP 30,000-40,000 (~$7-9 USD).
Budget Tips
- Stay in Barichara, not San Gil. Accommodation in Barichara is comparably priced and infinitely more charming. Use the cheap colectivos to access San Gil’s activities.
- Walk the Camino Real both ways. The colectivo back from Guane is cheap, but the walk is free and the uphill return offers different views.
- Eat at local comedores. The almuerzo corriente is the best-value meal, as throughout Colombia.
- Buy artisan goods directly from workshops. You cut out the middleman and the prices are better than in the shops.
- Drink limonada de panela. Limeade sweetened with panela is available everywhere for COP 3,000-5,000 (~$0.70-1.20 USD) and is the perfect refreshment in the warm Santanderean climate.
Getting Out of Barichara
Most travelers continue south to Bogota, north to Bucaramanga, or onward to the Caribbean coast. The reverse route — colectivo to San Gil, then bus to your next destination — is straightforward. Night buses from San Gil to Bogota are the most common option, though connections to Santa Marta, Cartagena, and other coastal cities are also available with a change in Bucaramanga.
Scott’s Tips for Barichara
- Walk the Camino Real to Guane early in the morning, before the heat builds. Start by 7:00 AM and you will have the path to yourself.
- Bring a hat and sunscreen for the hike. The path is largely exposed, and the Santanderean sun is strong.
- Visit the mirador at sunset. The colors over the Suarez canyon are extraordinary.
- Try the hormigas culonas. Yes, they are ants. Yes, they are delicious. Do not leave Santander without trying them.
- Spend at least two nights. Barichara reveals itself slowly, and the experience of walking the stone streets at dawn, when the town is still waking up, is not to be missed.
- Visit the Fundacion Escuela Taller to see the paper-making process. It is one of the most distinctive artisan experiences in Colombia and the handmade paper products make meaningful souvenirs.