Why Leticia Changed How I Think About Travel
I want to be upfront about something: Leticia is not an easy destination. It is not cheap to reach. The humidity is staggering. The mosquitoes are relentless. There are no Instagram-ready infinity pools or artisan coffee shops. And it is, without any qualification, one of the most extraordinary places I have ever been.
Leticia sits at the southernmost tip of Colombia, at the point where the borders of Colombia, Brazil, and Peru converge on the banks of the Amazon River. The city itself is modest — a small, warm, slightly chaotic frontier town that blends seamlessly into Tabatinga, its Brazilian twin city, at a border marked by nothing more than a road sign. But Leticia is not the destination. It is the gateway. The destination is the Amazon itself — the river, the jungle, the tributaries, the communities, and the astonishing web of life that exists in the largest tropical rainforest on Earth.
I arrived in Leticia at the end of a long trip through Colombia, and I almost did not come. The flights seemed expensive, the logistics complicated, the mosquitoes off-putting. I am profoundly glad I pushed through that hesitation. The Amazon challenged and rewarded me in ways that no other destination on this trip could match.
Getting to Leticia
There is only one practical way to reach Leticia from the rest of Colombia: by air. The city has no road connection to the Colombian interior — it is separated by hundreds of kilometers of unbroken jungle. This isolation is part of what makes it special, and part of what keeps visitor numbers manageable.
Flights
LATAM and Avianca operate daily flights from Bogota’s El Dorado Airport. The flight takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes and crosses the entire country from the Andean highlands to the Amazon basin. If you have a window seat, the transformation of the landscape below — from the green patchwork of the highlands to the endless, uninterrupted canopy of the rainforest — is remarkable.
Fares vary significantly. I have seen one-way prices as low as COP 200,000 ($47 USD) when booked well in advance, and as high as COP 600,000 ($141 USD) for last-minute bookings. Book as early as possible and be flexible with dates.
Before You Fly: Yellow Fever
This is non-negotiable. You must have a valid yellow fever vaccination certificate to enter the Amazonas department. The vaccine must be administered at least 10 days before arrival. Airlines often check vaccination certificates at the gate in Bogota, and you may be denied boarding without one. If you need the vaccine, it is available free at many Colombian health centers — get it well in advance of your trip.
Arriving in Leticia
The airport is small and located at the edge of town. Taxis to the center cost COP 8,000-10,000 ($2-2.35 USD). There is also a modest airport tax of COP 27,000 ($6 USD) payable upon departure that catches some travelers off guard — carry cash.
The Three-Country Border
One of Leticia’s most distinctive features is its location at the convergence of three nations.
Walking into Brazil
The border between Leticia and Tabatinga, Brazil, is completely unmarked in practical terms. You walk along the main avenue, pass a sign that says “Bienvenidos a Brasil,” and you are in another country. The language shifts to Portuguese, the currency to Brazilian reais, and the beer to Skol and Antarctica. No passport stamp is required for day visits, though you should carry your passport for identification.
Tabatinga is useful for several reasons: the food options are different (Brazilian cuisine offers a welcome change after weeks of Colombian rice and beans), the riverside market is lively, and you can buy supplies at slightly different price points depending on exchange rates.
Crossing to Peru
Small boats make the short crossing from the Leticia waterfront to Santa Rosa, Peru, throughout the day for COP 10,000-15,000 (~$2.35-3.50 USD). From Santa Rosa, faster boats travel upriver to Iquitos, Peru’s largest Amazon city, in a journey that takes 10-12 hours. If you are continuing to Peru, make sure your passport is stamped at the migration office in Leticia before departing.
Walking through three countries in a single day — morning coffee in Colombia, lunch in Brazil, afternoon in Peru — is a surreal and delightful experience.
The Amazon: Jungle Lodges and Excursions
The reason to come to Leticia is to get into the jungle. The most immersive way to do this is to book a multi-day stay at one of the jungle lodges along the Amazon’s tributaries.
Jungle Lodge Experience
Most lodges are located 30 minutes to two hours upriver from Leticia by motorized canoe. They range from basic (hammocks, shared bathrooms, kerosene lamps) to comfortable (private rooms, electricity for a few hours, simple but well-prepared meals). Even the more comfortable lodges are rustic by urban standards, and that is by design — you are here to be in the forest, not insulated from it.
A typical lodge package of three nights and four days costs between COP 700,000 and COP 1,200,000 (~$165-282 USD) all-inclusive — accommodation, meals, guided excursions, and boat transport. This represents excellent value given the level of expertise and access provided.
What the Excursions Include
Over three to four days, a typical lodge program covers:
Jungle treks. Guided walks into primary rainforest with a local or indigenous guide who identifies trees, plants, insects, and animal tracks. The biodiversity is staggering — your guide will point out medicinal plants, enormous ceiba trees, poison dart frogs, columns of leaf-cutter ants, and if you are lucky, monkeys and sloths in the canopy above. Night walks reveal an entirely different ecosystem — tarantulas, tree frogs, caimans at the water’s edge, and the overwhelming chorus of insects and amphibians.
Canoe trips. Paddling through flooded forest (igapo) and along narrow tributaries where the tree canopy closes overhead. The silence, broken only by bird calls and the dip of the paddle, is profound. These trips are the best opportunities for spotting wildlife — herons, kingfishers, hoatzins, and the occasional anaconda or river otter.
Fishing for piranhas. Yes, piranha fishing. Using a simple hand line with a piece of raw meat, you dangle your bait from a canoe into the dark water. The piranhas are aggressive feeders and the tug on the line is immediate and violent. I caught five in twenty minutes, and our guide prepared them for dinner — they are bony but the white, firm flesh tastes remarkably good.
Indigenous community visits. Meetings with Ticuna, Yagua, or other indigenous communities where you learn about traditional crafts, hunting techniques, shamanic practices, and the challenges facing Amazon communities. These visits are typically organized respectfully, with direct economic benefit to the community.
Pink River Dolphins
Seeing pink river dolphins (boto, or Inia geoffrensis) was the single experience I was most hoping for in the Amazon, and it exceeded every expectation.
These dolphins are genuinely pink — not a subtle blush, but a vivid, unmistakable pink. They are freshwater dolphins, found only in the Amazon and Orinoco river systems, and they behave differently from ocean dolphins. They are slower, less acrobatic, and often solitary or in small groups. They surface with a languid roll, showing their pink backs and small dorsal ridges before disappearing into the brown water.
Most jungle lodges include dolphin-watching excursions, or you can arrange a half-day boat trip from Leticia (COP 60,000-100,000 / ~$14-24 USD). The tributaries near Lago Tarapoto and Puerto Narino are reliable spots. Our guide knew exactly where to find them, and within minutes of reaching the tributary, pink and grey dolphins were surfacing all around us. I watched them for over an hour and could have stayed all day.
Swimming with Dolphins
At certain locations, it is possible to swim in areas where the dolphins are active. They are wild animals and approach at their own discretion, but the experience of floating in the warm, tea-colored water while a pink dolphin surfaces nearby is utterly unforgettable. Not everyone is comfortable swimming in the Amazon — the water is murky and the idea of piranhas nearby is unsettling — but the reality is far less dangerous than the imagination suggests.
Puerto Narino
About two hours upriver from Leticia, the small town of Puerto Narino is one of the most remarkable communities in the Colombian Amazon. It is an entirely car-free, eco-conscious town that has become a model for sustainable living in the region.
The streets are pedestrian paths. Waste is rigorously separated and recycled. The surrounding lakes and forests are managed by the indigenous communities who have lived here for centuries. Puerto Narino is a base for dolphin watching, canoeing, and community-based tourism, and it offers a glimpse of what a more harmonious relationship between humans and the Amazon forest might look like.
A day trip to Puerto Narino from Leticia costs COP 70,000-90,000 (~$16-21 USD) for the boat round trip, or you can stay overnight in one of the simple guesthouses in town.
What to Eat in Leticia
The food in Leticia reflects its border location and Amazonian setting.
Amazonian Fish
The rivers here yield extraordinary fish. Gamitana (tambaqui in Portuguese) is a large, meaty fish with rich flesh that is grilled or stewed. Pirarucú (arapaima) is one of the world’s largest freshwater fish, with firm white flesh that takes well to any preparation. Both are served at restaurants throughout Leticia and typically cost COP 25,000-40,000 (~$6-9 USD) for a generous plate.
Exotic Fruits
The Amazon produces fruits that are available nowhere else in Colombia. Copoazu is a relative of cacao with a tangy, creamy flesh used in juices and desserts. Acai is abundant (you are on the border of Brazil, after all). Camu camu is packed with vitamin C. The market in Leticia is the best place to sample these — fruit juices cost COP 3,000-5,000 (~$0.70-1.20 USD).
Brazilian Food
Walk across to Tabatinga for Brazilian options. The padarias (bakeries) serve excellent pastries, and the restaurants offer feijoada, picanha, and other Brazilian staples. Prices are sometimes lower on the Brazilian side depending on exchange rates.
Piranha
If you catch your own, your lodge guide will prepare them. If not, several Leticia restaurants serve piranha soup — surprisingly delicate and flavorful.
Where Should I Stay in Leticia?
In Leticia (Between Jungle Excursions)
Budget: Hospedajes (guesthouses) in central Leticia run COP 50,000-80,000 (~$12-19 USD) per night. Air conditioning is essential — verify it works before committing. Hospedaje Mahatu is clean and reliable.
Mid-Range: Hotel Decameron Decalodge Ticuna (COP 300,000-400,000 / ~$70-94 USD) is the most comfortable option in town with a pool and functioning air conditioning. Hotel Yurupary is another solid choice.
Budget Alternative: Some travelers stay in Tabatinga for lower prices, though the accommodation quality can be more variable.
In the Jungle
Lodge prices are almost always all-inclusive packages. Expect to pay COP 200,000-350,000 (~$47-82 USD) per person per night, including meals, guided activities, and boat transport. The lodges range from hammock-based shelters to cabins with private rooms and en-suite bathrooms. Choose based on your comfort level and budget.
Health and Safety
The Amazon demands more health preparation than any other destination in Colombia.
- Yellow fever vaccination is mandatory. Get it at least 10 days before arrival.
- Malaria prophylaxis is recommended by many health authorities for the Amazonas region. Consult your doctor or a travel health clinic well before departure.
- Insect repellent with 30%+ DEET is essential. Apply liberally and reapply frequently. Mosquito-borne diseases including dengue and malaria are present.
- Long sleeves and pants should be worn during jungle excursions, especially at dawn and dusk when mosquito activity peaks.
- Stay hydrated. The heat and humidity are intense. Drink far more water than you think you need.
- Do not touch unfamiliar plants or animals. The jungle is home to species that bite, sting, and irritate. Let your guide lead.
Budget Tips
- Book flights early. Leticia flights fluctuate dramatically in price. Two months out is usually the sweet spot.
- Choose an all-inclusive jungle lodge package. These represent the best value since meals, excursions, and transport are bundled.
- Eat at the market. Leticia’s market serves enormous plates of fish with rice, salad, and plantain for COP 12,000-15,000 (~$3-4 USD).
- Cross to Tabatinga for groceries and supplies. Brazilian supermarkets sometimes offer better prices on essentials.
- Share boat costs. If organizing independent excursions, team up with other travelers to split boat charter fees.
- Carry Colombian pesos, Brazilian reais, and US dollars. ATMs exist in Leticia but can be unreliable. Having cash in multiple currencies gives you flexibility on both sides of the border.
When to Visit
The Amazon has two broad seasons: high water (roughly January-May) and low water (roughly June-November). Each offers different experiences.
Low water (Jul-Oct): This is generally considered the best time to visit. River levels are lower, exposing beaches and making wildlife easier to spot along the contracted waterways. Trails are less muddy. Dolphin sightings tend to be more concentrated.
High water (Feb-May): The forest floods and you can canoe through the trees. The landscape is dramatic and surreal, with the water rising many meters into the forest. Fishing is harder and some trails are inaccessible, but the flooded forest canoe experience is unique.
Scott’s Tips for Leticia
- Get your yellow fever vaccine well before your trip. This is not optional — you will be denied boarding without proof of vaccination.
- Book a minimum three-night jungle lodge stay. Anything less does not give you enough time to truly experience the forest.
- Bring insect repellent with at least 30% DEET, and bring more than you think you need. The mosquitoes in the Amazon are persistent and numerous.
- Pack light, quick-dry clothing. Everything takes forever to dry in the humidity, and you will be sweating through your clothes daily.
- Carry a headlamp for the night walks. Your hands need to be free, and the darkness in primary forest is absolute.
- Do not skip the piranha fishing. It sounds touristy but catching and eating your own piranha from the Amazon River is an experience you will tell people about for years.
- Walk across to Tabatinga for dinner at least once. The change of cuisine and atmosphere is refreshing, and the Brazilian food is excellent.