Why Villa de Leyva Stopped Me in My Tracks
I have visited a lot of colonial towns across Latin America. Antigua in Guatemala, Sucre in Bolivia, Trinidad in Cuba — all beautiful, all charming, all worthy of their reputations. But when I stepped into the Plaza Mayor of Villa de Leyva for the first time, something different happened. I stopped walking and just stood there, trying to process the scale of what I was looking at.
The plaza is enormous. At roughly 14,000 square meters, it is the largest cobblestone town square in Colombia and one of the largest in all of South America. The entire surface is laid with uneven, centuries-old cobblestones, and the surrounding whitewashed colonial buildings with their terracotta roofs and wooden balconies have barely changed since the town was founded in 1572. There are no modern intrusions. No glass towers peeking over the rooflines. No neon signs. Just an impossibly vast square of stone, framed by four centuries of perfectly preserved architecture.
Villa de Leyva sits in the highlands of Boyaca at just over 2,100 meters, about four hours northeast of Bogota by bus. It is a town that wears its history without any self-consciousness. People live and work in these colonial buildings. The artisan workshops along the side streets are not staged for tourists — they are operating businesses where families have been weaving textiles and shaping pottery for generations. The town feels genuinely frozen in time, and that is not a marketing slogan. It is simply the truth.
Getting to Villa de Leyva
The journey from Bogota is part of the experience. Buses leave regularly from the Terminal de Transportes in Bogota, and the ride costs between COP 35,000 and COP 45,000 (~$9-11 USD) depending on the company. I recommend Libertadores or Omega — both run comfortable, modern buses on this route.
The road climbs out of the Bogota savanna, passes through Tunja (the departmental capital of Boyaca, worth a stop on the return), and then descends into the drier, more rugged terrain that surrounds Villa de Leyva. The last stretch of the journey is beautiful, with the landscape shifting from green highland pastures to a more arid, almost desert-like terrain scattered with cacti and rocky outcrops.
If you are driving, the route is straightforward. Take the highway north toward Tunja, then follow signs to Villa de Leyva. The total drive is about three and a half hours without stops. Parking in town is limited but available — your accommodation can usually advise on the best spots.
Getting Around Town
Villa de Leyva itself is entirely walkable. The colonial center is compact, and part of the pleasure is wandering the cobblestone streets without a particular destination. For attractions outside town — the fossil museum, El Infiernito, the Desierto de la Candelaria — you can hire a taxi for the day (around COP 150,000-200,000 / ~$35-47 USD) or rent a bicycle from one of the shops near the plaza.
I spent a full day cycling to the surrounding sites and it was one of the best decisions I made. The terrain is gently rolling, the traffic is minimal, and the landscape is striking. Just bring sunscreen and water — the highland sun is deceiving at this altitude.
The Plaza Mayor
I keep returning to the plaza because it is genuinely the soul of Villa de Leyva. In the mornings, it is quiet. A few vendors set up their fruit stalls. Dogs wander across the cobblestones. The colonial facades glow in the early light. By afternoon, families appear. Children fly kites (Villa de Leyva is famous for its annual kite festival in August). Couples walk the perimeter. In the evening, the buildings are illuminated and the entire scene takes on a dreamlike quality.
I sat on a bench on the western side of the plaza during sunset, eating an obleas (thin wafers with arequipe, Colombia’s addictive caramel spread) from a street vendor, watching the sky turn gold and then purple behind the bell tower of the Iglesia Parroquial. It was one of those simple, perfect travel moments that no amount of money could improve.
The plaza hosts the town’s market days, festivals, and public life. On weekends, especially during holiday bridges, it fills with visitors from Bogota. Midweek, it can feel almost empty — just you, the cobblestones, and four centuries of history.
The Fossil Sites
Villa de Leyva sits on land that was once a shallow sea during the Cretaceous period, roughly 120 to 130 million years ago. The entire region is extraordinarily rich in marine fossils, and this geological heritage is one of the town’s most fascinating attractions.
The Kronosaurus Fossil Museum (El Fosil)
About five kilometers outside town, this small museum was built directly over the spot where an enormous Kronosaurus fossil was discovered. The specimen — a marine reptile that stretched over seven meters in length — is displayed in situ, exactly as it was found embedded in the rock. Standing over it and looking down at the bones of a creature that swam in a sea that covered this very spot 120 million years ago is a humbling experience.
The museum charges a modest entrance fee of around COP 10,000 (~$2.50 USD) and takes about 30 minutes to visit. It is well worth the short trip from town.
The Paleontological Research Center
For a more in-depth look at the region’s fossil heritage, the Centro de Investigaciones Paleontologicas near the town center houses an impressive collection of ammonites, marine reptiles, and other specimens found in the surrounding area. The displays are well-curated and the explanatory panels are informative. I spent over an hour here and learned things about Cretaceous marine ecosystems that I had never encountered before.
El Infiernito — Colombia’s Stonehenge
About nine kilometers from Villa de Leyva, the archaeological site of El Infiernito preserves a series of stone columns erected by the Muisca people, Colombia’s most significant pre-Columbian civilization. The columns are believed to have served as an astronomical observatory and ceremonial site. The name “El Infiernito” (Little Hell) was given by Spanish colonizers who were scandalized by the phallic shape of some of the stones.
The site is modest compared to Machu Picchu or Tikal, but it carries a quiet power. Standing among the stones on a clear morning, with the Boyaca highlands stretching in every direction, I felt a strong connection to the people who placed these markers here centuries before the Spanish arrived. The on-site museum provides context about Muisca culture and astronomy.
Entrance is around COP 8,000 (~$2 USD). Combine this with a visit to the fossil museum on the same day trip circuit.
The Desierto de la Candelaria
The landscape surrounding Villa de Leyva includes a remarkable stretch of arid, desert-like terrain that seems completely incongruous with the green highlands of Boyaca. The Desierto de la Candelaria, about 20 kilometers from town, features eroded rock formations, cacti, and a striking Augustinian monastery that dates to the early 1600s.
I hiked through the desert landscape on a cloudless morning and was struck by how much it resembled parts of the American Southwest. The geology is fascinating — layers of sandstone and clay that have been sculpted by millennia of wind and rain into alien formations. The monastery itself is open to visitors and offers a peaceful, contemplative atmosphere.
This area is best visited with a local guide or by hiring a taxi for the half-day. Bring plenty of water and sun protection — the desert terrain offers no shade.
What to Eat in Villa de Leyva
The food in Villa de Leyva leans heavily on Boyacense traditions, which means hearty, warming dishes suited to the cool highland climate.
Must-Try Dishes
Carne oreada is the local specialty — beef that has been salted and sun-dried in the highland air, then grilled over wood coals. It is chewy, deeply flavored, and absolutely delicious when served with papas criollas (small yellow potatoes) and aji (spicy salsa). I had the best version at a small restaurant on the south side of the plaza.
Changua is the traditional Boyacense breakfast soup — a broth of milk and water with poached eggs and stale bread. It sounds strange and looks unpromising, but on a cold morning in the highlands it is wonderfully comforting. Most local restaurants serve it, and it typically costs around COP 8,000-12,000 (~$2-3 USD).
Longaniza sausage is made throughout Boyaca and sold from street stalls and small shops in Villa de Leyva. It is spiced, slightly smoky, and perfect as a snack while wandering the town.
Mazamorra is a thick corn-based beverage served warm, sometimes sweetened with panela (unrefined cane sugar). It is available from street vendors and in local restaurants.
What Should I Eat in Villa de Leyva?
The restaurants surrounding the plaza range from tourist-oriented spots with inflated prices to genuinely good local places. My approach is to walk one or two blocks away from the plaza to find better value.
For a midday meal, I recommend the set lunch (almuerzo corriente) available at smaller restaurants for COP 12,000-18,000 (~$3-4 USD). These meals include soup, a main course with rice, beans, and protein, a drink, and sometimes dessert. The quality varies, but the value is consistently excellent.
For a nicer dinner, the restaurants along Carrera 9 and Calle 13 offer more refined takes on Colombian cuisine at prices that remain very reasonable by international standards. Expect to pay COP 35,000-60,000 (~$8-14 USD) for a main course with a drink at these establishments.
Where Should I Stay in Villa de Leyva?
Villa de Leyva has accommodation for every budget, from basic hostels to beautifully restored colonial boutique hotels. The town’s historic architecture means that many hotels occupy genuine colonial buildings, with thick adobe walls, interior courtyards, and wooden balconies.
Budget (Under COP 80,000 / ~$19 USD per night)
Several hostels near the plaza offer dorm beds from COP 30,000-40,000 ($7-9 USD) and private rooms from COP 60,000-80,000 ($14-19 USD). The quality is generally good, and most include a basic breakfast. Colombian Highlands Hostel is a reliable choice with a communal kitchen and social atmosphere.
Mid-Range (COP 120,000-300,000 / ~$28-70 USD per night)
This is the sweet spot in Villa de Leyva. For COP 150,000-250,000 (~$35-59 USD), you can stay in a charming colonial hotel with a courtyard, comfortable beds, and a proper breakfast. Look for places with fireplaces or heaters — the nights get genuinely cold, and not all accommodations have adequate heating.
Luxury (COP 400,000+ / ~$94+ USD per night)
The town’s top boutique hotels offer stunning colonial restoration, beautiful gardens, and excellent service. Hotel Boutique Plazuela de San Agustin and Casa Terra are standouts. At these prices, you get rooms that feel like stepping into a beautifully maintained colonial mansion, because that is exactly what they are.
Weekend vs. Midweek Pricing
This is critical to understand. Villa de Leyva is one of Bogota’s favorite weekend escapes, and accommodation prices can increase by 50-100% on Friday and Saturday nights. If your schedule allows, plan your visit for Tuesday through Thursday. You will pay significantly less and have the town largely to yourself.
Budget Tips
Villa de Leyva is affordable by international standards, but it is not the cheapest destination in Colombia. Weekend pricing and tourist-oriented restaurants near the plaza can push costs up if you are not careful.
- Visit midweek. I cannot emphasize this enough. A room that costs COP 250,000 on Saturday might be COP 130,000 on Wednesday.
- Eat the set lunches. The almuerzo corriente at local restaurants is filling, fresh, and costs a fraction of ordering a la carte.
- Bring layers, not expensive cold-weather gear. The altitude means cool mornings and evenings. A fleece and a light jacket are sufficient.
- Cycle instead of taxi. Renting a bicycle for the day costs around COP 25,000-35,000 (~$6-8 USD) and covers all the main attractions outside town.
- Buy snacks at the local market. Fresh fruit, bread, and cheese from the market near the plaza cost a fraction of restaurant prices.
Day Trips from Villa de Leyva
Raquira — The Pottery Capital
About 25 kilometers from Villa de Leyva, the small town of Raquira is Colombia’s pottery capital. The main street is lined with shops selling colorful, hand-painted ceramics in every conceivable form. Prices are remarkably low — a beautiful hand-painted pot might cost COP 15,000-30,000 (~$4-7 USD). Buses run regularly from Villa de Leyva, or you can cycle if you are feeling ambitious (the road is hilly but scenic).
Iguaque Sanctuary
The Santuario de Fauna y Flora de Iguaque protects a high-altitude paramo ecosystem with a sacred lagoon at its center. The Laguna de Iguaque, at 3,600 meters, was considered sacred by the Muisca people — in their creation myth, the goddess Bachue emerged from its waters to populate the earth. The hike to the lagoon is demanding (about 5-6 hours round trip with significant elevation gain) but passes through cloud forest and paramo landscapes that are among the most distinctive ecosystems on the planet.
Tunja
The departmental capital, about 40 minutes from Villa de Leyva, is often overlooked by travelers but has genuinely impressive colonial architecture and churches. The Casa del Fundador Gonzalo Suarez Rendon and the church interiors are remarkable. Tunja makes an easy stop on the way to or from Bogota.
When to Visit
Villa de Leyva has a relatively consistent climate year-round, with daytime temperatures between 14 and 20 degrees Celsius. The dry seasons (December-February and June-August) are the most popular times to visit and offer the best weather for hiking and outdoor exploration.
Key Festivals
- Festival de Cometas (Kite Festival) — August. The plaza fills with enormous, elaborate kites and the sky above Villa de Leyva becomes a canvas of color. It is one of Colombia’s most beloved annual events.
- Festival de Luces (Festival of Lights) — December. The town is illuminated with thousands of candles and light displays. The plaza becomes magical.
- Festival del Viento y las Cometas — January. Another celebration of kites and wind, smaller than the August festival but equally charming.
Scott’s Tips for Villa de Leyva
- Visit midweek to avoid weekend crowds and inflated prices. Tuesday through Thursday is ideal.
- Bring warm layers for the evenings. The altitude means temperatures can drop to near freezing at night, and many budget accommodations lack heating.
- Rent a bicycle and spend a full day cycling to the fossil museum, El Infiernito, and the surrounding countryside. The roads are quiet and the scenery is outstanding.
- Do not skip the Kronosaurus fossil. It is a short ride from town and seeing a 120-million-year-old marine reptile in situ is genuinely awe-inspiring.
- Try carne oreada at least once — it is the signature dish of the region and tastes best when eaten with a cold Club Colombia beer on the plaza.
- If you are visiting during a festival, book accommodation at least two weeks in advance. The town fills up completely and prices spike.